Hīkoi over the Harbour

We’ve come too far, and we’re not going back.

Kia mau ra, kia mau ra
Ki te mana motuhake
Me te aroha

Hold fast, hold fast
To your sovereignty
And to love and compassion

Lyrics: Hīrini Melbourne.

“Ngā Iwi E passionately calls for unity among the peoples of the Pacific, a cause deeply cherished by Melbourne himself.”

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I sat at my desk this morning and thought about what to write. I had a couple of ideas, but nothing was grabbing me. My mind was elsewhere, thinking of the people rising early to continue with, or join, the Hīkoi. Mattresses at local Marae or locals taking the chance to be part of an historic event. Bugger this, I thought, I’m not missing out.

I have vivid memories as a kid; I’m sure I’ve written about it before, of sleeping in the meeting house at Marae, the sounds and smells of the kitchens, and the games we kids played. I’m grateful for those experiences; I reckon if everyone in Aotearoa spent some time on a marae, not in any rush, there would be much less racism than there is.

Myself, Gerard Otto, and Mary Webb.

Looking at the details, I was confused about where to go. Having said that, I think the organising groups have done an incredible job with all the planning, logistics, and communications for such a large-scale series of events.

I contemplated going to Takaparawhau (Bastion Point) or Ihumātao later, but that didn’t feel right. In my view, the start of a protest is the best bit, the anticipation, getting a feel for the occasion, and there is time to chat with people, which is more difficult once things get going. There was nothing for it but to head over the bridge to the meeting place at the Onepoto domain.

Glancing at social media, I saw that my fellow leftie writer, Gerard Otto (G of G News), was heading that way, too, so I called him. He was just getting on the ferry and would be pleased to have a lift from there, so I headed into town and parked vaguely legally outside the ferry building.

G called, “I think I can see you. Do you have room for one more?” “Sure,” I said, jumping out to move the pile of dance costumes in the back seat Fi had been sewing for my daughter’s dance students. I guess that makes her a Dance Grandma now, as opposed to a Dance Mum.

G’s extra passenger was Mary, who was somewhat familiar. You can see her in the first photo on the right and the top left in the gallery above.

The crowd was building nicely. Music was playing, and there was a very gentle, positive vibe. Bemused motorists on the other side of the road looked impatient to get to work. Ha ha - good luck with that! As the announcer said over the loudspeaker, “If you’re not at work now, might as well forget about it”, or words to that effect.

Mary signing shirts

A lovely young man approached the three of us and introduced himself and his two kids. He was asking pakeha, Tangata Tiriti, to sign their shirts, which he intends to present to politicians in Wellington. On his shirt, we each wrote our names; on his daughter’s shirt, where our family origins were, and on his young son’s shirt, a message of hope. I wrote, “You will win this!”

Looking around at the crowd, I saw a mix of people. There were many Māori, but plenty of Pakeha, too. People were of a wide range of ages; some had wee ones in prams or front packs. One lady had a couple of small dogs in a pram.

I wished the politicians were there to experience the spirit of people who really care about this country and respect Te Tiriti. Green MP Teanau Tuiono walked by, but the MPs from the coalition needed to be there, and of course, there was no sign of them.

The crowd was really building now, with so many flags and placards. Despite the light rain, it was warm. I also met a few readers of this newsletter, which is always lovely.

Chants were being practised over a loud hailer, and you got a real sense of just how many people were there as they responded around you.

Various people were filming, including Guy Williams, who seemed in a very good mood. He joked with the kids around him and interviewed the chap doing the chants, quite pleased he could speak to the crowd over the hailer.

As the crowd slowly headed for the bridge, Mary and I returned to the car. Traffic was at a standstill. I chatted with a couple of people waiting who must’ve been there for ages, and I suggested to one guy that he’d be there for a long time yet. He made a U-turn and headed off.

The bridge walk is 5km long and has an incline, of course. It would take a very long time to walk that many people over it in groups.

Following a wide circuit around the affected area, we managed to get on the motorway. We crawled over the bridge, watching the people preparing to climb and a group of men performing a welcome of some kind at the side of the road.

Driving east, I went up to Orakei and along Kupe St, which I know well, having lived one road over when I was at University. Preparations were underway at the Marae, and there was already nowhere to park. We headed down to Mission Bay and stopped for a coffee and breakfast, which Mary generously shouted.

Having never met before, it was nice chatting with Mary about unions and past times, plus what is happening now. Heading back along Tamaki Drive, we hit parked cars before we got to Ōkahu Bay. The crowd was building, and I dropped Mary as close as possible.

Heading home, I passed pockets of people with flags, and when I went by the motorway from the port over the bridge, I could see traffic was still bumper to bumper, some hours after the march began.

The following is a montage G put together of the crossing; if you don't follow him, you can find all his excellent work here.

So, just a few words from me about what it was like this morning; I’m sure I’ll write more about this in the coming days.

Fi is overseas next week for work, so I’m accompanying our youngest, Matty, to Wellington for some filming work. I hope to get down there in time for the arrival of the Hīkoi at parliament on Monday. I’m sure I’ll see some of you there. Have a great day, all you lovely people.

We’ve come too far, and we’re not going back.

I heard this one playing this morning as we waited. It definitely suited the vibe of the day, and it's been playing in my head ever since. Sing along if you know it.